Simone Rocha reflects on her Runway Shows at Lightroom

If the Vogue: Inventing the Runway exhibition wasn’t enough to lure fashion lovers to Lightroom in King’s Cross, the Vogue Conversations series is sure to seal the deal. The first event this week invited us into an exploration Simone Rocha’s rhinestone-and-ribbon world, with the conversation led by Julia Hobbs, Fashion Features Director of British Vogue. Each Vogue Conversations ticket includes entry to the 5:30 pm screening of the exhibition, after which the space transforms into a talk-show setting that will be welcoming a line-up of other fashion trailblazers in the months to come. The immersive screens surrounding the room come alive during the conversation. As the designer reflects on each runway show, images from the catwalk illuminate the space and envelop the audience in the energy of each collection.

5 Shows, 5 Collections

AW13

We start with AW13, the show that put Rocha on the map after its debut at London Fashion Week in 2013. As we were enveloped in the sea of furry leopard print, Rocha shared that this was a show where she felt “really humbled but also really proud”. The collection introduced an injection of colour into her previously-monochromatic brand and included many elements that are now synonymous with her signature designs. As she pointed out a “Pepto Bismol pink” neoprene set on the screen, she laughed in saying “it has kind of become our logo”. Many pieces feature translucent materials like mesh and organza, where Rocha commented “I've always been interested in things that are transparent and exposing what is underneath”.

The “big and cavernous” setting at Somerset House, she felt highlighted the striking contrast between her clothing and the vast runway. “The idea of dressing in this formal feminine way but then juxtaposing it with this very cold space – it was the beginning of this tension and contradiction in my work,” explained Rocha.

This formal femininity drew inspiration from her grandmothers. Yet when asked about "muses" in her later work, Rocha claimed that there were no particular figures of inspiration and that “its about a femininity that has so many ranges and gauges that can tap into so many different women”. Speaking on her place as a designer in London, Rocha described the city as “a melting pot where you have the opportunity to express yourself”. Claiming that when the AW13 collection walked its way down the runway, “it was a time when London was really alive”.

AW16

AW16 is a show that Rocha described as very “autobiographical” to her, having come soon after the arrival of her first daughter and being influenced by her own transitions into motherhood.

AW16 was staged within Lancaster House, Rocha’s second time displaying her pieces in the mansion, and embodied darker gothic elements. A notable piece being a sheer embroidered crimson dress with red threads cascading down the model’s hands, evoking images of blood, which Rocha mentioned “became a key motif” in her work.

Owing to her new motherhood at the time of AW16, Hobbs questioned if the completion of the show offered Rocha a sense of relief. “Every show is cathartic,” Rocha explained, however the closing moments also lead to a “big adrenaline rush” due to their intensity. “That, however, is the point of fashion shows,” said Rocha. “They’re very intense, and because it’s so intense it pulls at the heartstrings.” It's the one-off effect of fashion shows that makes them so powerful, leading her to question “if you could see it again, would it have the same impact?”

SS20 

Nodding to her Irish heritage, Rocha’s SS20 incorporated elements of Wren Day. An Irish tradition that takes place on St Stephens Day (Boxing Day) in which a wren is hunted and placed on display. One custom involves a group of ‘Wrenboys’ who parade the streets with the wren and sing songs to the crowds. Rocha explained that she was inspired by the wicker masks and intricate dress of ‘Wrenboys’ and weaved this motif into many of the pieces in SS20.

But it wasn’t just the inspiration that featured Ireland on this runway, it was the models too. “I wanted to ask Irish actresses that I admired to walk the show,” said Rocha, with the show including Jessie Buckley, Simone Kirby and Olwen Fouéré. Lesley Manville also walked, who Rocha called an “honorary Irish” and expressed that she herself was honoured to have these women want to be involved in her show. Particularly as the models frequently wore Rocha’s designs off-duty and in their day-to-day lives. The show, set in Alexandra Palace, was filled with what Rocha described as “a palpable energy“. 'It felt very ceremonial” reflected Rocha, noting that this show as one of her personal favourites.

Jean Paul Gaultier X Simone Rocha

Even those we admire have their own fangirl moments, and we’re sure Rocha experienced this when invited to Jean Paul Gaultier’s studio to collaborate on a haute couture collection for 2024. The collection seamlessly blended Gaultier’s iconic caged skirt silhouettes and sailor caps with Rocha’s signature touches of transparency, intricate embroidery, and whimsical ribbons.

Reflecting on the creative process, Rocha shared that Gaultier didn’t see the pieces until they were revealed on the runway. She pointed to a sailor-inspired outfit on the screen, noting how the nautical stripes were reimagined with gently ruched navy ribbons—an elegant example of how she infused her personal style into the Gaultier aesthetic.

SS25 

The final runway examined was SS25, Rocha’s freshest collection yet. When Hobbs asked if it was her favourite, Rocha answered saying "your favourite show is always your latest—and it’s always the one you’re most critical of," as it’s still too close to memory to view with any distance.

SS25 was a deep dive into history, with Rocha immersing herself in the world of historical garments. She called it a “labour of learning,” and was particularly struck by the real-world significance that the clothes once held saying “there is so much beauty in these garments; their true function was to protect you.” One piece that left a lasting impact was Queen Victoria’s mourning dress.

True to form, Rocha's signature transparent fabrics were back in full force, weaving the theme of duality into the show. It was a visual metaphor for how "what you show on the outside isn’t always a reflection of what’s inside." In other words, we’re all expertly masking our inner worlds, one sheer fabric at a time.

The Run-Up to the Runway

Hobbs pointed out Rocha’s commitment to understanding how her show will flow on the runway. She will often visit locations in advance, sometimes up to five months before, and begin to plot out how the show will work.

During the discussion of SS20, we gained insight into Simone Rocha's creative process, particularly her approach to selecting music for her runway shows. Rocha plays an active role, starting with a personal pre-show playlist she listens to on her way to the studio but refrains from having it on repeat in the studio at risk of annoying anyone else! She then collaborates with a music artist to craft the final set, often keeping it secret until the day of rehearsal. Rocha also shared a glimpse into the backstage atmosphere at her shows. While she describes herself as calm on show day, pre-show nerves often keep her up at night, leading her to jot down last-minute ideas and changes in the early hours.

Hints for London Fashion Week 2025

With London Fashion Week arriving in late February, the discussion turned naturally to try and squeeze any hints out of Rocha for what is to come with her show.

“I’m going to show somewhere I have shown previously," she said with mystery, "returning to somewhere we have been before but bringing new life." Where? What? Why? All the classic 'W' questions still linger, but there is no doubt that the detectives among the crowd rushed home to try and make sense of such clues. All we know is that a reborn retrospective seems to be in the runway plans. Whether that be channelled through the designs, location or inspiration - we don't know for sure. But we can safely say the anticipation for what is behind studio doors has now been nudged up a notch.

Advice to the Next Generation of Designers

As the conversation drew to a close, Hobbs asked Rocha for her advice to the next generation of designers. The room was filled with fashion students who had come for words of wisdom from Rocha, and suddenly a sea of phones popped into the sky to record what she was about to bestow. “Make the most of your studies” she began, "it’s a time for people to learn and be exposed to as much fashion as possible, and particularly for those in London, the city is full of never-ending inspiration". Rocha also expresses that now is also the time to get things wrong, “you have license to make mistakes and figure out your identity”. As we saw throughout her discussion of her shows, identity is such a key part in the designs that Rocha creates so she reminds us that “becoming comfortable with your identity” is vital as you begin your journey to becoming a designer. She closes with the practical advice to “get as much experience as you can.”

View the full line-up of speakers and book tickets to future Vogue Conversations via lightroom.uk/vogue-conversations/