Restaurant of the week - Ibai

On arrival at Ibai - the new restaurant sandwiched between the Barbican and St Paul’s Cathedral - guests are greeted with a dark drawn velvet curtain, resolutely obscuring what awaits on the other side. When my guest and I first set foot in the door, we were met with a friendly host, so were quickly relieved in the knowledge we wouldn’t be bemusedly peeling back the drapery alone. As she led us however, we were still left wondering what exactly was about to be unveiled. Is it where C.S. Lewis hangs his coats? Could secret agents be devising a plan for a bulletproof earlobe? Probably not. But what is inside is perhaps just (or maybe almost) as intriguing. In a city bursting with tastes and aromas inspired by cultures from all corners of the world, Ibai promises culinary magic from a region mysteriously unaccounted for. 

Rugged coastlines, picturesque villages and vibrant bars are a few features known to the Basque country. Offering some of the most exuberant food in Europe - from piquillo peppers to pastel vasco - the region is celebrated for its vigorous flavours and masterly techniques. While Spanish Basque cuisine has had its share of adoration from Londoners, what restauranter Nemanja Borjanović (of Lurra and Donostia in Marleybone) is offering, is rich and varied produce plucked straight from the French side of the region. He is joined by business partner William Sheard as well as Head Chef Richard Foster who was formerly responsible for running the kitchen at Chiltern Firehouse.

The French Basque experience

The space itself is cavernous, having previously worked as a factory site. Its transformed aura for Ibai is both immaculate and intimate, as moody, earthy tones are complemented with curved booths and slick tableware. In a nod to French Basque gastronomy, the restaurant’s interior feels both understated and sophisticated, while the region’s geographical diversity shines through the menu, which boasts coastal and inland influences.

The restaurant’s design may be finessed to perfection, but as soon as we try our first bite - the recommended Croque Ibai - it’s clear the new spot is not all sizzle and no steak. These crispy, oiled delights filled with carabinero prawns, blood sausage and melted Tomme de Bebris immediately bowl us over. Cooking up what is essentially a cheese toastie may be a bold move in a new restaurant providing haute cuisine, yet Ibai’s take on a croque monsieur is angelic - it couldn't possibly disappoint.

While our miniature croques may have stolen the show amongst our starters, also to land on the table as entrées are a light and zesty carabinero tartare, and a truffle pate that balances its intensity with hints of honey; very easy on the palette. Now we’re experiencing the menu coming to life, our seafood flavours and indulgent marinade are a pleasant mirroring of the area’s majestic sea and rolling mountains.

After consulting co-owner and gracious wine connoisseur Sheard, white and red arrive to accompany each dish, with both novel and established choices coming directly from producers across the Basque country and into Spain, including Vega Sicilia and López de Heredia.

Steak-of-the-art 

Recreating the full-bodied cooking of the Basque country is no easy feat. Galician Blond cows are a rare Spanish breed typically left to roam in fresh pastures and for up to a decade longer than the measly two years most British cows get to make use of. Not only does drawn-out grazing make for rosier lives for cattle, but extra marbling enriches the flavours and textures on our plates. 

Borjanović knows this all too well, having founded meat distribution company Txuleta, a supplier for some of the best chop houses in London including The Devonshire and Goodman, with Ibai its latest recipient. Sourcing directly means the restaurant has full control over its produce, from farming to feasting. Borjanović’s commitment to slow rearing goes even further, having brought a selection of retired dairy cows to English soil to patiently wait until they are old enough to supply them to Ibai. 

It's a gutsy process, but one which after tucking into the fullblood wagyu beef we order evidently pays off. Delicately sliced, succulently cooked and finessed with a salty, charred surface that tantalises, this steak tastes of craftsmanship. We also opt for the octopus, that’s tender and tasty and comes bedded in piperade marmitako, a hearty ratatouille-resemblant medley of peppers, onions and tomatoes typical to the Basque region. 

After mains, we had little room for much else but as we were impressed with every other course, the idea of turning down a desert was a short-lived one. The pain perdu with hazelnut ice cream and shavings came recommended. It’s not a light treat with a thick and buttery consistency, but we finished as we started and diligently basked (or basqued?) in its glory.