Dream Sky High: Review of Tivoli Mofarrej hotel, São Paulo

Brazil. The land of luscious rainforests, idyllic beaches, convoluted history and one of the most brilliantly loud, colourful and diverse cultures in the world. Before visiting the country for the first time, I anticipated evenings spent on the beach sipping caipirinhas, playing volleyball, or exploring scarcely inhabited, jungled islands, home to unparalleled nature and scenery. What I didn’t foresee, was how much I would fall in love with the city of São Paulo, a megalopolis often overlooked (guilty!) as a gateway to the country’s true treasures, with flights arriving daily from the UK and elsewhere.

São Paulo is known as the financial centre of Brazil, and envisioning grey skyscrapers and suited professionals doesn’t get your heart racing in quite the same way as an opportunity to spot a jaguar in the Amazon or revel in Rio’s party scene. Once I landed, it wasn’t long before this city – the largest in Brazil and one of the largest in the world – turned my misconceptions on their foolish head. I marvelled at the world-class dining scene, the stunning architecture and the relaxed, yet vibrant atmosphere – a concept the term 'financial district' doesn’t exactly scream.

My base for exploration? Now that was a treasure. Nestled in the leafy, elegant Jardins neighbourhood, towering Tivoli Mofarrej encapsulates modern-day São Paulo while offering a stylish sanctuary from the hub of the city.

The hotel’s building is discreet from the outside, as its glassed frame stands hidden behind oval-shaped, brutalist facades and verdant greenery spilling over from the Trianon Park opposite. Inside, modesty vanishes. Once my guest and I are warmly welcomed by the porters in the driveway and our luggage whisked away, we take in the impressively striking lobby. The space is vast, airy and designed in a way that’s visionary and relaxed, with glossy wooden flooring, marbled décor with golden hues and thick black square panelling over a glass ceiling, allowing light and greenery to flood in.

This blend of nature and modern design is reminiscent of current-day architecture in São Paulo. The famed glass house of Italian-Brazilian architect Lina Bo Bardi plays with the combination of transparency and obscurity in a similar fashion. São Paulo’s architectural history is rich and reflective of the wider country, from old European colonial influences with intricate, lavish displays to post-war modernist designs embodying clean lines and functionality. The hotel’s style nods to more contemporary pieces of work, which rather than playing to stereotypes take a more imaginative and timeless stance.

In terms of discovering the architecture, museums, theatres and more in the city, the hotel is primely located, a stone’s throw away from Avenida Paulista, one of the city’s most iconic cultural streets home to The Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) building (a Lina Bo Bardi masterpiece). On weekends the area comes particularly alive, with the expansive street transformed into a walkway where cars are replaced with musicians, performers and anyone else looking to spread some joy.

As important as the exploration is the sanctuary to follow it. The enticing turquoise pool offers a haven in the heat – especially alluring in the December to March summertime – of the city. Designed by Brazilian fashion designer Amir Slama, colourful murals and luscious plants lean to a trendy and tropical alfresco vibe, where we find well-dressed locals (we're talking delicate kimonos and radiant speedos) poised with rosé glasses, basking in the weekend heat. 

For poolside dining the MUST restaurant and bar is open all day, while for a bite with a panoramic view, head up to SEEN restaurant on the 23rd floor. Here, a varied menu led by renowned Franco-Portuguese Chefpreneur Olivier da Costa is accompanied with both an impressive cocktail and sushi bar – a suitable experience with Japan having one of the largest sub-cultures in São Paulo.

The top floor restaurant is where daily breakfast is served, with everything you can imagine from a five-star hotel buffet – from lavish pastries and Champagne to an array of cooked options, including eggs to serve – while the urban skyline surrounds you.

Given the height of the building, many of the hotel’s 218 apartments come up with astounding views, so you can admire the city while stationed high in the sky on your king-sized bed. It’s worth keeping the curtains open for a moment at sunset to witness the city while the sun winds down and the night skyline comes alive.

Rooms are all about modern sophistication and comfort, decked out with butler service, hi-fi equipment, wide screen televisions, coffee machines, as well as bathrooms with walk-in rain showers and large countertops. While the Deluxe Plus room felt like a commodious penthouse suite itself, the Brazilian-designed Presidential Suite on the 22nd floor boasts panoramic views, and spanning 750m², claims to be the largest suite in Latin America.

The hotel offers its Thai, Brazilian-influenced, Anantara Spa, which though I didn't experience could be the ultimate way to indulge in a city escape. Hosting specialised treatments and massage rooms with private saunas, the spa offers over 25 different health and beauty options for the face and body.

So, while the beaches and rainforests are a must for Brazil, I learnt the hard (or rather, the enjoyable) way that the country’s heart thumps loudly in São Paulo. This isn’t an urban destination to be skipped. With its imaginative design, jaw-dropping views, top-tier dining and stylish spot for a dip, Tivoli Mofarrej offers an inspiring taste of this unique and underrated city.

Room rates for Tivoli Mofarrej in São Paulo start at 192 GBP per night per person.