Auld Reekie, a grey and gothic city, encircled in mist, mystery, and heather-laden moors. At any time of year, it’s easy to romanticise Edinburgh. After all, it’s home to some of the finest Georgian architecture in Europe and the birthplace of literary legends like Sir Walter Scott and Sir Robert Louis Stevenson. And that’s all before we even think of Harry Potter.
A Festive Weekend in Edinburgh
12th December 2025
While famous for Hogmanay, the run-up to Christmas is the perfect time for a festively frosty weekend in Edinburgh. Clara Taylor gives a run-down of what to do for a weekend of Yuletide merriment.
Come December, the city transforms into a twinkly festive fairytale scape. Vintage candy-striped fairground rides delight shrieking children and the air fills with cinnamon and mulled wine. While the temptation may be to visit on the 31st for Hogmanay, it’s well worth a pre-Christmas getaway.
Where to Stay
Edinburgh is simply teeming with quaint, cosy, cottage-core luxury hotels. The appeal is obvious – let’s be honest, the weather can be terrible, so the prospect of curling up in front of a grand fireplace is certainly inviting. But for convenience and something fresher, and dare we say, younger, W Edinburgh is the go-to. Split between the distinctive building fashioned to mimic a spiralling ribbon and the opposite townhouses, it gives a sense of Edinburgh old and new. The Suites are fitted with everything you could want and more – martini glasses and a mini-bar, a bed as wide as it is long, a dining table should you so need. Views from the 12th floor are also sensational, framing the entirety of the city skyline from Arthur’s Seat to Portobello Beach. Plus, breakfast is served in Sushisamba and everyone needs Japanese-Peruvian-Scottish fusion to start their day.
For something more classic, and a short walk from the glossy Multrees Walk – aka the Bond Street of the Scottish Capital – is Gleneagle’s Townhouse, the city outpost of the members club cum hotel. If you’re after a dose of maximalism, The Hoxton opened in Edinburgh over the summer in anticipation of the Fringe, bringing with it its signature pink tiles and printed furniture.
What to Do
It would be remiss to publish a guide to a festive weekend in Edinburgh and not mention the Christmas markets. Where Winter Wonderland may leave visitors feeling shell-shocked, the Edinburgh iteration actually allows you to enjoy your mulled wine, chocolate-covered churro, or raclette without feeling too penned in. Set in the valley in the heart of the city, it spills out across the tiers of Princes Street Gardens, giving you space to wander, sip and snack with a view. More festive than frantic.
The Castle at Light is another merry must this time of year. Every evening, Scotland’s iconic fortress comes alive with the UK’s largest annual projection show. The theme of this year’s display is fire and ice, so the Great Hall transforms into a frozen realm, and outside, fire pits are laid out so guests can toast marshmallows in between browsing street food stalls.
The city, as a whole, is so perfectly walkable that it’s very achievable to explore every nook and cranny in a weekend. Dean Village is an absolute must-visit – a picturesque, former milling village in the valley by the Water of Leith. Expect walks along cobbled streets next to a gushing river. Very Disney-esque. In a similar vein, Stockbridge is also a lovely village-y part of town to explore. Circus Lane is a beautiful mews street and perfect for a potter.
There are independent shops aplenty here, like 5th Season Vintage – you can’t miss the white pillars and orange panelling – which is run by an incredibly stylish couple and has the best of the 70s and 90s (the best decades) on offer. For something a tad more cerebral, Golden Hare Books is simply charming. There’s a wonderfully curated selection of new books for all ages and genres, which you can browse in the glow of the shop’s wood burner. If all that’s made you hungry – you’re only human after all – then a trip to Lannan on the corner of Hamilton Place is essential. Serving the likes of caramelised honey, salted almond and brown butter praline with dulcey cremeux and honey marcona almonds (a literal mouthful) or their signature mince pies, which are paired with a salted almond streusel and brandy cream, it’s a real love letter to indulgence.
Scotland is famous for a few things: bagpipes, kilts (no pants) and whisky. As the land of Scotch, the pride in this national drink is palpable. For those not in the know, the Johnnie Walker Experience is a great way to better understand one of the world’s best-known brands, but also to peer into the distilling process. Plus, you get three cocktails which have been tailored to your personal flavour profile which makes for a highly tailored tasting.
Where to Eat and Drink
Scottish cuisine is so much more than neeps, tatties, and, of course, haggis. Edinburgh is home to some of the world’s best up-and-coming chefs, as well as the established industry old guard. A jewel in the city’s crown is Cardinal Scot. The tasting menu (and wine pairing, duh) beckon to you as you descend the hill from the centre of town into Stockbridge. Labelled as Modern Scottish food and drawing on “Scotland’s natural larder”, it’s in fact a global celebration of flavour. The oyster served in a Guinness, chilli, and wild garlic velouté of sorts is a true highlight, as is the barbecued crispy mushroom from the vegetarian menu. What truly elevates the experience is the interesting selection of wines – everything from organic Japanese sake to Georgian grapes – which are served by a staff so clearly passionate about the restaurant’s offering and ethos.
The Little Chartroom, Grace Dent’s darling of Leith, should also be included on your Edinburgh hitlist. With chef-patron Roberta Hall McCarron at the helm of the restaurant’s open kitchen, each dish is a hit after hit, especially if you’re a great lover of game. Lyla, whose Michelin-star menu places more emphasis on sustainably sourced fish from the Scottish Isles, is a ten-course tango of the best produce the UK has to offer.
For something more casual, Civerinos is beloved by locals and is the city’s go-to for authentic East Coast-style pizza. Fortunately, there are a few locations across the city so you can grab a slice of New York or Chicago-style pizza as you’re out and about. We also can’t forget Max’s Gourmet Sausage Rolls, which caught the New York Times’ attention earlier this year. A comforting classic perched on the edge of The Meadows, it’s the perfect Sunday sustenance.
The moment that the sausage roll hits your lips, however, a sudden thirst comes over. One which only a trip to a proper pub can satiate. Nauticus feels like an old boozer but has such award-winning cocktails that you could be at the latest opening in Soho. The Lioness of Leith is also a must and has transformed from a derelict shell into the creative neighbourhood’s watering hole of choice. It’s also home to Burger Mama, one of the best burgers in the city. Bar-wise, St Vincent has a speakeasy vibe, nestled in the basement of a Georgian Townhouse. Slightly more upscale but still subterranean, Bramble has a really intriguing cocktail list featuring the likes of a Kimchi Tai and a Shibuya Shake.
Making the Move?
It’s no secret that in recent years, we’ve seen somewhat of an exodus from London in recent years. But it’s no longer just the standard city-to-countryside pipeline. Plenty of people are yearning for another city to experience, with Edinburgh being top of that list. Native Land, the organisation behind some of the most exciting developments across the UK, has the New Eidyn development in the heart of St James’s Quarter, which is primed for a Londoner looking to relocate.
The epitome of cosmopolitan living and considered Edinburgh’s premier residential development, there are 152 apartments, each with varying panoramic views of the city. The private landscaped sky gardens add to the exclusivity of the space, literally elevating urban living. The interiors, designed by the Folio Group, who are behind some of Soho Home’s chicest work, are available to buy alongside the properties. Think curved boucle sofas, arched chrome floor lamps and abstract framed prints from a range of Scottish artists. You are, of course, also greeted with wafts of Diptique or Aesop, creating the vibe of a boutique hotel.
Included in New Eidyn living is its Residents’ Rewards Programme, granting owners access to curated experiences across the city. These include personal shopping and styling at the nearby designer boutiques, fast-tracked memberships at Edinburgh’s private clubs, and priority tables at sought-after restaurants. Sign us up!
Book a viewing at New Eidyn through neweidyn.com