The Michelin Chef Residencies to Know Now

Words by
Jemma Sissons

24th October 2022

The latest eating out trend celebrates togetherness as chefs invite their trusted culinary friends to  collaborate and commune at their restaurants. Michelin-starred chefs are also popping up at exotic resorts for seasonal residencies. SPHERE brings you a delicious look at the joy of gastronomy with friends.

KOYA KO

Known for its silky hand-pulled noodles and fragrant broths, Koya outpost Koya Ko in Hackney has enlisted a range of chefs to create new takes on its classic dishes. This autumn, Ombra’s Mitshel Ibrahim serves up the marine mollusc and sweet pea version, with an innovative crispy pancetta lardon and puntarella udon from Laura Jackson.

 “It was originally developed as a series of Instagram posts called Posted by Friends, to introduce and showcase different dishes that could be made with our omiyage set,” says co-founder Shuko Oda. “It’s been wonderful to see the diverse colours and flavours that our friends have come up with, and it felt like a natural but exciting step to bring this as a special udon to our Hackney site.” 

For Oda, it’s about turning the idea of convention on its head. “Some dishes are similar but with a twist that you normally wouldn’t expect from Koya, and some are completely different — using various spices and aromatics that we’ve never used before in our kitchen.”

Shuko Oda of Koya Ko
Shuko Oda of Koya Ko in Hackney
THE OLD PHARMACY

Somerset’s foodie star continues to rise, with Hauser & Wirth’s Roth Bar & Grill., The Newt and At the Chapel luring a weekending Celine-clad entourage to Bruton. At the epicentre of its culinary revolution is Merlin Labron-Johnson, who has two of the best restaurants in the region: the elegant Osip and the more casual bistro and deli The Old Pharmacy

For Michelin-starred Labron-Johnson and his team, the residencies are a great opportunity to forge new relationships. He has created a setting at The Old Pharmacy designed to be like opening the door to his own home. “We wanted to create these intimate, laid-back Sunday events where our chefs here could collaborate with other chefs they’ve admired from other parts of the country and the world.” 

In October, Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich from Honey & Co will introduce “a little Middle Eastern mezze magic to Bruton.”  November will see the arrival of Parisian Manon Fleury. “She is a chef I really admire,” says Labron-Johnson. “Her ethos really reflects how we cook here at Osip and The Old Pharmacy, working with organic, local produce in a way that avoids waste. I can’t wait to see what menu she comes up with and the unique spin she puts on the Somerset produce we grow.”

Merlin Labron-Johnson of The Old Pharmacy and Osip in Bruton
Merlin Labron-Johnson of The Old Pharmacy and Osip in Bruton by Maureen Evans
ONE&ONLY LE SAINT GÉRAN

With its cathedral-like rooms inspired by the architecture of old sugar mills, pro tennis instructors, juice bars and a spa with floor-to-ceiling marble, the One&Only Le Saint Géran sets the bar high for luxury
in Mauritius, with gastronomy at the forefront. 

Arriving this autumn is Anne-Sophie Pic, who has been awarded more Michelin stars than any other female chef in the world, and currently holds 10. Her culinary partnership, La Dame de Pic at Prime, launched October 8th and will run for six months at the One&Only Le Saint Géran. 

“One&Only Le Saint Géran is a place I hold very dear to my heart, having spent my honeymoon here almost 20 years ago, and it brings me great joy, having come full circle,” she says. 

Pic has never worked in a tropical climate before and is looking forward to working with the island’s local produce. She will infuse her signature Michelin-starred cuisine and style with the local spices, flora and fauna of Mauritius, so guests can expect innovative twists on ingredients, such as babonne fish cooked in banana leaves, and innovative ways with tropical citrus fruits and spices, including cinnamon leaf and combawa. Her menus will be accompanied by a selection of wine and cocktail pairings.

 

Anne-Sophie Pic of La Dame de Pic In Mauritius
Anne-Sophie Pic of La Dame de Pic In Mauritius by Fabien Dubessay
SONEVA MALDIVES

If a London or Somerset sortie isn’t exotic enough this autumn, seek out some Indian Ocean sun. Soneva in the Maldives is inviting a wealth of world-class culinarians to take up residencies  as part of the brand’s Soneva Stars programme. 

The resort welcomes Chantelle Nicholson from London’s Apricity from October 25th to November 10. One of the leading female voices in the industry, she is a champion for seasonality and sustainability, putting humble veg centre stage at her zero-waste restaurant. 

Fresh, local produce is at the forefront  of Nicholson’s menus. Diners at Nicholson’s Mayfair eatery Apricity  can expect dishes such as tempura courgette flower, radish and pea ajo blanco; Allwood Farm aubergine,  zhoug, almond butter and dukkah crackers; and plum and rapeseed frangipane tart with cream.

At Soneva, she will be using the freshest seafood, tropical fruits and spices. “It  will be a taste of Apricity, brought to  the Maldives,” she explains.  “I’m excited to be using produce harvested from the Soneva gardens, which, with the Maldivian climate, differs to what is produced in the UK. The menu will be fresh and vibrant, paying homage to the local environment.”

Other highlights include residencies from chefs Viktor Beley and Asma Khan in November, Timothy Bilton and Paul Svenson in December, and Tim Raue in January 2023.

Chantelle Nicholson of London's Apricity
Chantelle Nicholson of London's Apricity guests at Soneva Maldives by Lisa Tse
QUO VADIS

The historic Soho restaurant and members’ club is still one of the most uproarious melting pots in town. Adding even more conviviality is the Quo Vadis  & Friends series of feasts, served around communal tables. 

Chef Jeremy Lee — one of the greatest hosts in the industry — has previously invited friends including Henry Harris, Fergus and Margot Henderson, Angela Hartnett and Nathan Outlaw to cook alongside him. 

The events focus on world-class chefs, from the multi-Michelin-starred and classically trained to bright young things, offering eye-opening creative dishes. They also encompass cuisines from West Africa
to Mexico, Sri Lanka to Italy, as well as including hyper-locally sourced dishes
from areas such as Cornwall and Yorkshire.   

This autumn you can look forward to sampling some recipes from his latest book Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many. Expect some of his signature dishes, including his famous eel sandwiches, chicken pie, and berry pavlova.  Crafted around the fragrant truffle, an autumn dinner will be hosted by Bellini Travel’s Emily FitzRoy, with more feasts to be announced.

 

A dish from Quo Vadis & Friends
A dish from Quo Vadis & Friends from chef Jeremy Lee