A Masterclass in Hair Styling with Lino Carbosiero MBE

What advice would you give to people with fine, limp hair to help it look its best?

You have to be very careful not to over-layer this type of hair. I like to go much chunkier and make the lines blunter to thicken the hair through the cut. If you go finer and take more of that hair out, it goes wispy.

How do you handle styling for clients with cowlicks or stubborn sections that don’t want to lay flat?

Go with it; don’t fight it. The ones around the crown areas are easier to handle, as you can cut a bit of weight into them, and it will help drag the hair down. For the front, you can blow-dry cowlicks in the opposite direction to make them flat.

How often should someone get a cut/style?

I recommend every six to twelve weeks.  

What are your pointers for adding longlasting volume to flat hair without teasing or overloading on too much product? 

I start by rough drying the hair downwards from the scalp to the ends; this closes the cuticle. Then I add a touch of heat protector and some mousse, particularly in the areas I want to lift. Then my personal technique is to blow-dry the hair with round brushes and leave the brush in.

Why do you prefer round brushes over rollers for setting a blow-dry?  

The versatility of a brush gives a flow you don’t get with a roller; you can position it almost exactly how you want. A roller gives a stiffer look, whereas a hairbrush creates a softer feel.

What should someone look for in a quality hairdryer? Are the expensive ones worth it? 

I’m finding that many of these new hairdryers are extremely hot and obviously damaging — you need to be very careful using them. I’ve been using a Parlux for 45 years; it’s what all the hairdressers use. 

Is it true that regular trims help hair grow healthier and faster?

If you grow an inch, cut half off. This way, you can ensure it’s growing healthily.

How many times a week should you wash your hair?

Some say daily, others say every other day, or even weekly. But if your hair gets very greasy, apply shampoo directly to dry hair first to break the grease down before rinsing. Don’t just add water — oil and water don’t mix, and the grease will be harder to get out.

Should hair routines change with the seasons? If so, how should clients adjust for summer vs winter? 

Yes you should change routine with the seasons, particularly when you are on holiday — if you're in the sea all the time with you hair continually wet you don’t need to wash it everyday. Just run some conditioner through your hair and rinse.

What is the worst thing for hair and what is your advice for this?

To be honest with you, all the appliances, because everything revolves around doing it yourself quickly. In the wrong hands, hair extensions are also very damaging to hair as your own hair will dry so much faster so you can easily damage it.

What’s one simple step everyone should add to their routine to keep their scalp healthy?

A proper hair wash and massaging the scalp is important, also brushing and combing your hair properly. Anyone can do this; you don’t need special tools.

For clients who want a super sleek, glossy look—what’s the secret to achieving that finish without frying their hair?

You must always dry downwards. If you close the cuticle, you're going to get maximum shine on the hair. The minute you try to dry hair off with your head upside down, all you're doing is opening the cuticle and that's when you get static and frizz.

How can people with curls or waves make the most of their natural texture?

Always work with the curl and cut the hair to where the curl wants to go. It’s important with curls to have that movement to make sure that you are always enhancing it.

What are some common mistakes clients make between appointments that can cause colour to fade faster? 

Simply not looking after their hair. If it goes dry or you're not wearing hats and protecting your hair from the sunshine, the colour is going to lift more.

SPHERE will co-host an exciting evening on 10 September at Daniel Galvin, George St, W1 (danielgalvin.com). Lino Carbosiero and experts will demonstrate How to Achieve Red Carpet Hair. Contact hello@spherelife. com to enquire and look out for more of Lino’s expert tips at spherelife.com.